Spring 2026 -A Month in Florida
Miami in 2026 one of the most vibrant and prosperous cities in America is a city under perpetual construction, growing ever taller. I'm told 1300 people a month are arriving looking for a property to buy. They are building accordingly... (subject to Iran, Wall Street Crash, Energy Crisis and the whims of the White House).
I was there to write my new novel - still very much a work in progress with all the ups and downs that writing fiction involves.
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So, thankfully I didn’t get shot by ICE. That was a relief. Visiting the USA is pretty damn fraught these days,
so it was something of an anticlimax to be waved through customs without a word being said. It’s all digital. All your life details and a photo have already been submitted, so it was easy – they even let a guy in covered head to toe in tattoos, so maybe he fitted the profile for desirable visitors better than old guy pro-Democrat me these days.
The great secret no one tells you is that there is the Tri-Rail train from the airport to downtown Miami. (It’s a bit of a distance from where Virgin Atlantic docks, but if you can walk it, it takes you to a people mover which takes you to the station and bus hub and a train that takes you to the Government Centre and beyond for just $2.75, or the Bright Line train which connects to West Palm Beach and Orlando). Or you can order an uber and stay in traffic for hours.
Miami traffic is legendary. Faster to walk. And what's with those guys racing their Ferrari's between traffic lights on Biscayne Blvd and their revving engines shattering the night quietness. So sad.
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I was in Miami for a month to look after Gracie, a VIP dog and do some writing and reading. Gracie is normally an uber dog. But since I always walk or train, she discovered she had legs. She spent the next four weeks in shock as we did our fifteen thousand steps a day. One day we decided to walk from downtown Bayside where we were living on the 40th floor to South Beach via the Venetian Causeway. Ok, to be honest 9 miles was a bit far for me too in 28c sunshine. Gracie absolutely refused to walk back, so I had to carry her. Only a small dog, but gee she got heavier with every mile back. I learned that a dog has its limits.
Photo: Gracie at the Perez Gallery |
Downtown Miami is the place to be now with the new 100-floor Waldorf Tower being built next door to where I was staying. This new building has only tiny balconies (due to high winds) but our 49 floor tower has vast 1000 sq feet balconies with great city views – at least Gracie’s apartment has, but unfortunately it’s in the take-off flight path from Miami airport. It feels like they are going to land on the building every five minutes. They will have to fly elsewhere once the Waldorf is built and the giant Golden Penis Building of the Trump Library by the Freedom Tower.
I first came to Miami as a student in 1971, back then the lovely Dupont building (built 1928) was the highest downtown building on Flagler Street. That building is still there and is a class act with marble floors and brass-plated elevators and with a great coffee and pastry at street level at La Boulangerie (no baguettes). Flagler Street is zoned for preservation – about the only mid-town place that is sadly, so if your looking for old Miami elsewhere you won’t find it – especially when Trump knocks down the Freedom Tower.
You'll find street markets on weekends and street jazz in the evenings on Flagler and beer at The Lost Boys bar. Whole Foods is two blocks over if your craving vegetables and organic food. At the new Miami World Centre you'll find the Museum of Ice Cream. Who says Miami doesn't take culture seriously. (NE 1st and 8th Avenue - a big Apple Store too). For actual culture try the Perez Gallery and grab a decent lunch there in the shade.
Photo: Flagler Street. |
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Met a local historian who showed me photos of the lovely mansions that used to populate Brickell along the Miami River. All gone, replaced with vast skyscrapers now. Sad to report too that Wynwood (famed for the street art - see photos) is fast disappearing under newly built condo towers. 14 new ones are being constructed this year alone. So visit now before it goes. America is famous for killing the things that people love. One wonders if the wonderful art deco hotels in South Beach will survive the developers.
Photo: Miami River and Metromover monorail +
Wynwood Walls |
Under the Miami Riverwalk |
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Miami is safe, but then again there are cops on every corner and I’m not exaggerating. Every corner. And let's not leave out the chickens. Yep really, wild chickens live in various underpasses and car parks and if you are walking a small dog beware they defend their young chicks with force! There are homeless people too but the cops seem to leave them alone and they don't usually hassel. And whatever your budget is – double it. A coffee and croissant will set you back $15/16, a pizza around 20/25, a glass of wine around 28. Use the Metromover to get around downtown – it’s free – and maybe avoid Bayside as it’s a tourist trap. On weekends about ten cruise liners dock in the bay to disgorge and take on passengers. It's quite a sight. You can catch a bus (100) to South Beach or take the free ferry from Edgemont Park. You don't really need to rent a car and if you want to go to the Keys there are tour buses. Believe me it's easier than finding parking.
I was last here writing The Restoration of Ami - a road trip novel that begins in Coconut Grove and heads north on a quest to find a spare part for a Studebaker Golden Hawk. Coconut Grove still has tree-lined streets and some lovely old buildings and I recommend walking the streets to take in the flavour and maybe stop at Green Street for brunch.
Gracie and I walked and met some interesting people and thanks to Rob, Vanessa, Pilar and Helena for buying my books. I also got some writing done and soon I hope to start typing it up and see if any of it makes sense.
Photos below Sunset on the 40th Floor and someone finds a moment on the Omni Loop
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And oh yes, download a translation app – Miami is a Spanish city. You’ll need it.
*I left the day after the US vs Iran war broke out. One wonders how it will end and what price the world will have to pay for it? $200 dollar oil maybe? I suspect Iran will fight to the last missile and take the gulf down with it.
Photos © Sam Hawksmoor March 31st 2026
Author of The Days After She Went Dancing and The Repossession of Genie Magee series.
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